Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Wise as an Owl

I highly recommend the drive from Johannesburg to the Cape, via The Karoo. "The hot dry Karoo has a sparse barren landscape, where the main economic activity is wool and meat from hardy Karoo sheep." In my mind, it's South Africa's answer to the US High Desert or the Australian Outback (as though either of them needed an answer).



Nieu Bethesda is a small town nestled in a fertile valley of the Sneeuberg Mountains. The town is known for it's remote location and for the Owl House, the eccentric creation of a woman called Helen Martins. You won't be surprised to know that I am attracted to Nieu Bethesda by the sense that "it is home to a growing number of artists, crafters and other creatives seeking a more conducive way of life." Hello Joshua Tree!

Accommodations are varied - I recommend the hospitality of Katrina and Ian at the Outsiders B&B. They can give you such hints as to visit the cemetry where the real estate is divided into haves and have-nots just as it was in the town. I recommend staying in the converted water tower complete with Eastern mural and private deck for watching events such as the lunar eclipse ;) Be sure to close the gate into the
garden - not for security but to ensure that the donkeys don't wander in at night.




Owl House
Helen Martins, creator of the mystical and unforgettable Owl House and Camel Yard, has immortalised Nieu Bethesda. It was here that she gave life and form to her unique vision, by transforming her modest house and garden with glass and cement. Now run as a museum, and known internationally as a remarkable example of outsider art, the
Owl House is open to the public every day of the year (except 25 December).





Artists Workshop
The population of Nieu Bethesda, about 1,000, is mostly unemployed and relies on various Government programmes. Luckily, the local artisan tradition has spawned a lively workshop/gallery/cafe - the Bethesda Arts Center. Beautiful sewn items from handbags to pillowcases to wall hangings grace the space. The gallery includes several works on paper by accomplished artists with 80% of the proceeds going to their creator. I highly recommend a stop and buy here!

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